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Nanoparticles in skincare and cosmetics: should we be concerned?

Recently, ingredient maker Kobo launched a range of non-nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide UV filters for use in sunscreens.

The company found that many consumers are concerned about potential health risks from nanoparticles in cosmetics, skin care and sunscreens.

Nanotechnology is the science used to reduce chemical particles to 100 nanometers wide, which is about 1/100,000 the thickness of a sheet of paper. Smaller than blood vessels, these nanoparticles can penetrate the skin much deeper and faster than regular chemicals. ‘Invisible’ zinc, used in sunscreens to prevent the white appearance of cream, is created using this technology.

Fears have been expressed from many quarters that this technology is being used more and more in the products we apply to our skin and is preempting research being done to determine if there are any repercussions.

Some studies have concluded that on healthy skin, these tiny particles are unlikely to cross the skin barrier and enter the body’s system.

Other researchers have found in their experiments that nanoparticles penetrate deeper and have been found to accumulate in organs. Quoted from an article published in The Economist magazine, November 2007:-

“Research in animals suggests that nanoparticles may even evade some of the body’s natural defense systems and accumulate in the brain, cells, blood and nerves.”

In a study from the University of California, LA, researchers found a potential risk of cancer and genetic disorders for people who work with high concentrations of titanium dioxide nanoparticles.

Consumers are advised to avoid non-essential food dyes, vitamins and drug additives containing this ingredient, as well as sunscreen sprays, as these particles can be inhaled.

More human studies are needed to truly understand the health effects of nanotitanium dioxide, according to the scientists. “Some people might be more sensitive to nanoexposure than others. I think the toxicity of these nanoparticles has not been studied enough,” said Robert Schiesti, one of the authors of the article published in the Journal of Cancer Research (1).

It seems that there are no labeling requirements in most countries, so consumers are not even informed if the products they use contain nanoparticles.

In March 2010, the UK Government’s Nanotechnology Strategy was launched with the aim of developing technology to benefit the economy and consumers. The strategy plans to address barriers to technology growth and is committed to mandatory labeling of nanoparticles in cosmetic products by 2013.

The British consumer magazine ‘Which?’ has criticized the strategy, alleging that the British government “…has sidestepped some central issues surrounding nanotechnologies, such as the need for a mandatory reporting scheme and plugging research gaps,” said Peter Vickery-Smith, chief executive from ‘Which?’ He went on to say: “This strategy was supposed to provide a clear direction to push this technology forward, instead the government has repeated old news and failed to act on many concerns.”

The consumer magazine believes there should be pre-market evaluation and approval of products developed with nanotechnology, as well as a mandatory reporting scheme for companies that use nanoparticles as ingredients.

In some countries, the debate about the safety of nanotechnology has become volatile. The French environmental group Pieces et Main d’Oeuvre (PTO) has consistently protested at meetings held to discuss the technology. Organized by the Commission of Public Debates that took place from October 9 to January 10, the PTO has interrupted the meetings claiming that all the important decisions had been made.

Germany’s Federal Environment Agency (UBA) has warned German citizens not to use products containing nanoparticles as long as the risks to the environment are unknown.

UBA claims that there are significant data gaps that need to be explored in relation to human health and the environment despite the fact that the German government created a nanotechnology commission. The UBA agency believes that the first step for a legal framework should be mandatory labeling and a registry to list all nano-containing products. This would provide transparent development for the technology; there are more than 800 companies in Germany that produce a large number of consumer products that incorporate nanoparticles. These products include cosmetics and sunscreens.

The agency is far from condemning all nanoscience. Nanoplastics for cars and airplanes reduce their weight contributing to fuel efficiency.

An EPA research team will investigate the use of nanomaterials, particularly titanium dioxide used in cosmetics.

A recent study from the Northern Ireland Institute of Biomedical Sciences showed a possible link between nanoparticles and brain disorders such as Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s.

Increasing amounts of nanoparticles are finding their way into wastewater streams from cosmetic and personal care products, pharmaceuticals and food products, as well as industrial waste. How these tiny particles interact with current wastewater treatment systems is largely unknown.

I don’t know about you, but it seems to me that we should be very concerned about nanotechnology and the apparent lack of checks and balances around the world.

At a minimum, concise labeling of products containing nanoparticles in ingredients should be provided to consumers so that the individual can make informed choices.

If all the people of the world are agitating, and not just those who are often called ‘greens’ in a derogatory way, but also scientists and researchers whose life’s work is to spot anomalies, then it might be a good idea to back them up and put pressure on our respective governments and authorities to ensure the safety of the products we use daily for ourselves and our families.

(1) Source: Journal of Cancer Research
2009, volume 69, number 22
Titanium dioxide nanoparticles induce DNA damage and genetic instability in vivo in mice
Benedicte Trouiller, Ramune Reliene, Aya Westbrook, Parrisa Solaimani, Robert H. Schiestl

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