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The 3 Faces of Barbados, Part 3 – The pristine and undeveloped beauty of the East Coast

Palm trees and wildflowers, and thankfully little else, adorn the rugged east (and north) coast of Barbados. Aside from a few private homes and modest commercial structures, Barbados’ east coast looks much like it might have looked 100 years ago.

Why would such a utopia remain undeveloped? Not because Barbados’ ruling fathers protect the beautiful rugged coastline, but because the Atlantic Ocean does.

And what beauty awaits you! In collusion with time, the breaking sea has eroded giant rocks along the coast into beautiful giant stone sculptures. But the waves pounding along the east coast of Barbados offer no mercy to anyone foolish enough to go inside.

However, there is one that enters: the world-class surfer. The ‘soup bowl’ at Bathsheba attracts serious surfers from all over the world.

We mortals are content with the calm pools of very hot seawater pools in which we hunt tiny forms of marine life and use them as nature’s hot tubs.

I reckon the winds off the east coast of Barbados contain a sedative; when I stay for the weekend, I walk and sit in the warm sea pools and marvel at the wonders of life, and then go back to my modest hotel room and sleep. And then sleep some more. When I visit the East Coast, I can take two naps during the day and still work eight hours at night.

Accommodation on the east coast of Barbados:

Which brings us to where to stay. Surfers often rent private seaside homes that have seen better days. Visitors with good sense, if not a more generous budget, stay at one of these modest hotels:

* round house: Located in one of the most beautiful settings in the world, Bathsheba, Barbados, this former house has been converted into a popular eponymous restaurant with a handful of rooms for rent on the top floor.

The rooms are basic but spotless and comfortable. Lounge on your balcony overlooking nature’s exquisite handiwork of verdant hills, vibrant wildflowers, and the magnificent, mighty ocean. Then head back inside, open all the windows, and allow the sound of the ocean and lazy breeze to lull you to a baby’s sleep.

Wherever you stay on the island, the Round House restaurant is a must visit; reserve an outdoor table on a Sunday afternoon, order a rum punch, watch the surfers, and listen to the wonderful musician Aubrey, belting out smooth jazz tunes.

* Bucket: As you sit or lie in a hammock strung between two coconut palms about 50 feet above the Atlantic Ocean at Bathsheba, you know you’re in a whole other world (apparently, one where names like “Sea-U” were invented! ! ). Cozy, personal, great home cooked breakfasts…and if you are an experienced, capable and brave surfer, the famous Soup Bowl is just a short walk down the hill and into the sea. However, even if you’re not into surfing, this spot offers a fantastic retreat from real life. Even if the accommodations are stylish, the setting surely is. Go to http://SeaUBarbados.com for more information; the website is first class.

* Hotel: The setting is beautiful, high above the Atlantic Ocean and there is a pool… but the rooms and restaurant could use an update, in my opinion. However, for viewing nature at work, like all the places on this list, the location can’t be beat. I went very early one morning hoping to catch the sunrise with my morning tea. Instead of sunshine, however, I was greeted by a rain storm, offering one of the most dramatic displays of Mother Nature’s muscle I’ve ever witnessed.

* Hotel Atlantida: Recently acquired by the owners of the divine Fish Pot restaurant and the very special Little Good Harbor Hotel on the west coast of Barbados, Barbados’ legendary Atlantis Hotel will soon rise again. As I write this in the summer of 2009, the former Bathsheba estate is undergoing a spectacular transformation into a charming destination: a ten-bedroom bed & breakfast. Visit the AtlantisHotelBarbados website to stay up to date and look forward to the end of 2009 for the completion of this exciting and fitting addition to the east coast of Barbados.

This concludes this three-part look at each face on the diverse island of Barbados: the elegant and serene Caribbean face of the west coast, the optimistic and casual face of the south coast, and the pristine and natural face of the east coast. Like the women, each beautiful in her own way.

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