It seemed, for a moment, like a maddened mirage. There, on the rolling sand dunes, were dozens of misshapen four-wheelers racing up and down, kicking up clouds of sand as they went. The first thought that popped into my mind was that a pack of daredevil circus stuntmen had been unleashed in the desert. No. This was not a mirage. There it was 30 minutes from Dubai and there, with their throttles revving, were the dune-bahers zipping through the desert in their buggies.

Dune bashing is often called the “desert whitewater rafting” and is a very popular sport in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Don’t worry about the name. Dune bashing is not some weird and violent activity but a serious adventure sport, which involves driving flashy cars, bikes or buggies in the open desert and having a lot of fun going up and down the mountain-sized sand dunes. Of course, getting stuck and breaking free is also an adventure.

Being new to the business, I decided to take the easy option: blast through the dunes in a mighty 250cc dune buggy, then take a full-blown desert ride in a chauffeured Toyota Land Cruiser. Travelers are driven into the desert and taken on a thrilling ride across the sand dunes in 4×4 vehicles? mostly powerful Toyotas or Pajeros.

Our dune expedition began when we were picked up by our Lebanese desert guide and driver in a powerful ultra-luxury Toyota Landcruiser from Dubai city center. It was about a half hour drive from the glittering skyscraper city of Dubai to the sandy expanses of Hatta.

As we left Dubai, we could see an imposing range of rocky and sandy Hajar mountains in the distance, their sides ravaged and pockmarked. Believed to be remnants of an ancient sea, which once flooded the Emirates, the Hatta Sand Dunes are located just outside of Dubai and most dune tours start from here.

We stopped at the entrance to the sand dunes.

You have two hours. They enter the arena and have fun,

Our Lebanese driver said pointing to the buggies that were available for rent. A buggy is a 4X4 vehicle that has a motorcycle saddle and handlebars. Driving a dune buggy on soft sand can be very tricky and sheer power is not enough to guarantee an exciting and fun dune ride.

There is no escaping the fact that a buggy is a strange looking vehicle. It is built like a scooter but has four wheels with fat tires. And it roars through the desert sending clouds of sand in its wake. Caravans of buggies ridden by dune enthusiasts followed by jeep are a common sight on the dunes around Hatta. From where we were standing in Hatta, we could see loads of buggies and cars racing down the sand dunes on what looked like suicidal adventures.

After a few minutes of looking, I was itching to try it out. I got into a 250cc buggy and took off towards the nearest dune. I tried to run up and down the dunes like the pros, but I fell on top of the first triangular shaped dune. After a few more debacles, I learned how to hit the dunes without getting hit into the sand. Going up and down the dunes, raising columns and clouds of sand was an exhilarating experience.

Soon it was time to get back in the Land Cruiser and experience a real desert ride. Our Lebanese driver and guide loaded us into the vehicle and set off for the undulating stretches of sand dunes. Soon the ripples increased as we traversed what seemed like great mountains of sand. The ride became choppier and felt almost as if we were sailing in a stormy sea and not driving. As our Land Cruiser lurched up and down the crests and valleys of the dunes, our driver cheerfully warned us that it would get worse. Were we okay and ready for more? Of course.

Once he had calmed down, he smiled and turned the wheel directly towards the sand dunes that almost flew across the field. After going up and down a few more dunes, he stopped in front of a place that looked a bit like a farm. This, our driver said, was one of the few farms that used native Arab practices to raise camels.

The few camels in sight gave us a quick look with their long noses and went back to chewing on the grass! Soon, a few more Land Cruisers appeared and lined up next to our vehicle. Were they fallen tourists of all sizes, shapes and races? Caucasians, Asians, including Indians, and some Africans as well. They all headed straight for the camels, ambitiously trying to pet them and take pictures.

Meanwhile, our driver started letting some air out of the tires, checking the pressure with a gauge to make sure it was okay. The slightly under-inflated tires provide more ground contact and provide more grip on the trails, he explained, adding that we would need all the traction we could muster to get around the tall dunes.

After a short break and when all the Land Cruisers had deflated their tires we started our real adventure through the dunes. The sand dunes rise up to 30m-40m, and some were even higher. The mighty vehicle slowly climbed up the sand dune, sliding here and there on the side of the sand pyramid. The windshield framed an ascending slope of sand; we were pushed back in our seats as if we were on a plane flying into the sky.

That first climb wasn’t easy, but it was certainly exciting and got our adrenaline pumping. And when we got to the sharp crest of the dune, we started down the other side. Heading straight down at breakneck speed, skidding across the sand, we had that sinking feeling in the pit of our stomachs. In places where the sand was too soft, the vehicle drifted sideways, leaning at a slight angle, sometimes to the left, sometimes to the right. At times it seemed as if the vehicle was going to tip over on its side… but our driver was an expert with over 10 years of experience and skillfully steered the Land Cruiser through the dunes.

After a bumpy two-hour drive, we reach a sheer chunk of rock in the middle of the desert. Our fleet of five Land Cruisers stopped to watch the crimson desert sunset. The view was just amazing and when the sun turned from gold to crimson red to a soothing orange it was a soothing experience for the soul.

The caravan of vehicles was ready once again to keep hitting the dunes until nightfall. We continued to party at nightfall and finally arrived at the well-lit desert camp, equipped with piercing lights, loud Arabic music and booths where we could be photographed in traditional dress (kandura for men and burkha for women).

Additionally, there were plenty of desert treats made from dates, dried fruit, and honey along with a heady mix of alcoholic cocktails and mocktails. Later as the night wore on we stretched out on rugs and cushions on a round wooden floor lounging and enjoying the cool desert breeze. Soon, a belly dancer came on stage and entertained us by passing around a hookah, also known as shisha, with scented tobacco, making us feel like royalty enjoying the dancers’ naach-gana.

MADE FROM FILE

o Where: Throughout the Arabian Deserts, Liwa Desert, Abu Dhabi, Hatta Dunes, Dubai, or anywhere with acres of sand.

o Agencies offering desert tours: Arabian Adventures (www.rabian-adventures.com), Alpha Tours (www.alphatoursdubai.com), Royal Sands Tourism http://www.royalsands.com).

o Prices: 160 dirhams and up for the desert tour with dinner included.