Driving three-inch lag screws to install hanging storage shelves in the garage is often a source of frustration for many people. They often experience breaking. In this article I will give tips on how to prevent this problem.

The tips listed here may be applicable to any type of lag use, however my experience stems from mounting roof brackets for ceiling mounted garage storage racks. These types of shelves require a 2″ insert into the stud. Most of these shelves include 3″ lag screws, as they must go through the drywall plus the width of the mounting bracket.

The most important thing to avoid breaking the screws is always predrill the holes. Use a 3/16″ bit and drill through the full length of a screw. When drilling only partially, you’ll get significant resistance driving the screw. I’ve heard some people have success drilling an extra hole into that with a drill bit. 15/16″ but only drill to the smooth area of ​​the lag bolt. Understand that wood is a natural product, therefore there is a chance that you will come across a knot within the wood. These areas generally don’t accept a screw well and can therefore force you to move your mounting point.

Second year of use shocking driver to drive the screws. The job can be difficult with a socket wrench. A cordless drill with the socket bit will do the job. However, by far the simplest solution is to use an impact driver. I have found that I need to use both hands and stand directly behind the drill in order to successfully drive them with a rechargeable drill. However, if I use an impact driver, I can install the screws with one hand and I don’t have to line up with the screw. This is particularly useful if I am on a ladder and need to reach the anchor point.

Another common problem is people overtightening the lag screws. No push too hard the hardware. If you turn the head once the top of the lag screw is already flat against the drywall, you risk twisting the head and getting the threads stuck inside the stud. This could cause problems with connecting your ceiling mount bracket because you might be installing through the studs, which means you won’t be able to just slide the bracket out a bit to make a new hole. Turn the screws until the head touches the roof bracket. No further tightening of the screws is necessary.

Apply soap or wax on the threads could simplify the driving of the screw. You’d be better off using candle wax if you can, because soap can cause the threads to rust over time.

If you are working with poor quality screws, consider a visit to the hardware store for better quality screws. Tea qualification and the material of the screws are marked on the head. Unmarked means the lowest grade 2 and has the lowest tensile strength. Three radial lines signify grade 5, a quenched and tempered medium carbon steel. This degree should rotate correctly and not have regular breaks. The final and strongest classification of steel bolts have six radial markings and are therefore grade 8.

Stainless steel lag screws would not have these standard markings on them, but would have an approximate tensile strength of grade 5, however they can bend more easily; Stainless steel will probably have something imprinted on the head, so don’t confuse them with grade 2. Stainless steel is also not magnetic.

I would not advise reusing lag bolt Once actuated, even if only partially, the screw is under tension. It is more likely to break when you try to use it again. Which also suggests that you shouldn’t install a screw running back and forth into the wood to bring it to the proper length. Lastly, a small amount of bending in the threads will prevent the hardware from turning and drilling the stud correctly.