Saffron is an exquisite spice with an illustrious past. It is a triple game of the senses. The honey-like smell, unique flavor and intense color of saffron are easily infused into a variety of dishes. There really is nothing like it and absolutely no substitute for it.
Why is saffron the most expensive spice? There are no modern shortcuts to your harvest. Fifty to seventy-five thousand flowers are needed to produce one pound. Intense manual labor is required to remove all 3 stigmas from each flower over the course of a week or two, as the flowers bloom and before they wither.
Intimidated by its price, many leave it out or do not cook recipes that call for this spice. In fact, so little is needed in any recipe that, per dish, you can impart an exotic flavor with little effort or expense. However, when you buy a bottle at the grocery store, you get more saffron than you need, and there is no evidence of its quality. Spice connoisseurs can rely on their fine sense of sight, taste, and smell, but the everyday consumer needs standards.
Saffron Quality
The quality of saffron is classified according to laboratory measurements. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) established a uniform set of standards for classification: ISO 3632. The defining characteristics of crocin (color), picrocrocin (flavor) and safranal (fragrance) content are evaluated. Basically, a photospectrometry report done by certified laboratories will give the saffron sample a color grade. Deeper saturated color is an indication of intense fragrance and full flavor.
Scores range from less than 80 (for all category IV) to 190 or more (for category I). The world’s finest saffron (the garnet-red tips of the stigmas collected from the finest flowers) receives scores of around 250 degrees for color intensity. Market prices are derived directly from these ISO scores. You get what you pay for. Category I generally has a color intensity of only 190 degrees.
Unfortunately, most retailers don’t know the quality of the spices they sell. They assume that all saffron is created equal. Until you find a reputable dealer, it’s best to shop in the smallest quantity available. It should be stored away from light and protected from moisture. If possible, look for a deep colored stigma with very few or no lighter colored strands. A dull red color can often be a sign of age.
cooking with saffron
Saffron has an unusual and distinctive fragrance, often described as “hay-like.” Use it lightly when cooking so you can experience its sweet and sour earthy flavor. Keep in mind that too much will make a dish bitter. The yellow/orange color it imparts to other ingredients makes it spectacular in dishes that are efficiently white, like rice and cream sauces. When the best saffron is used in the correct proportions, it lends its elegance to a multitude of ingredients – seafood, meats, vegetables, rice and grains – and can also be elevated with a simple blend of spices. Try adding a little to curry powder, garam masala, or a Moroccan seasoning to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. Pairs well with garlic, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, tomatoes, and potatoes. The cuisines of India, the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Morocco and Spain use saffron in their best regional dishes. Spanish paella eloquently highlights the spice’s affinity with rice and shellfish.
Prescriptions
The following recipes are simple and will help you get to know saffron. A quick note on its use…
When using saffron threads, plan on soaking them for 5 minutes in something hot, acidic, or alcoholic, whatever the ingredient in the recipe. Do not try to soak in oil as it is only soluble in water. The soaking process extracts the aroma, flavor, and color so it can be evenly distributed throughout a dish.
If you use saffron with a color intensity greater than 220, it will be more concentrated, so use a little less than the recipe calls for. Always avoid using too much.
Saffron Vanilla Lassi/Smoothie (Serves 4)
Sugar syrup
4 tablespoons of water
4 tablespoons of sugar
Lassi/Smoothie
2 tablespoons of water
A pinch of saffron threads
3 cups of vanilla yogurt
Prepare the sugar syrup by dissolving the sugar in 4 tablespoons of water in a small saucepan over medium heat or in a microwave-safe container, microwave for 45 seconds. Remove and let the syrup cool down.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of water. Place in a small bowl then add the saffron. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In a large bowl whisk the yogurt. Add the sugar syrup and the saffron water. Beat to combine. Serve immediately over ice.
Saffron Kulfi (for 6-8 people)
2 tablespoons of water
1/8 teaspoon saffron strands, crushed
¾ cup heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom (or seeds from 2 cardamom pods, crushed)
1/8 teaspoon ground real cinnamon
1 can (14 ounces) nonfat condensed milk
1 can (12 ounces) nonfat evaporated milk
Heat the water and let the saffron stand in the water for 20 minutes.
Combine the saffron mixture with the remaining ingredients, stirring with a whisk.
For in popsicle molds. Freeze for 8 hours or overnight.
Soften for 1 minute before removing from serving pans.
