Colorado’s Flat Tops Wilderness: An In-Depth Look

Encompassing an impressive 235,214 acres, Flat Tops is the second largest swath of roadless wilderness in Colorado. Accessible only by foot or horseback, the area offers unparalleled opportunities for solitude and escape. Whether it’s hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing or big game hunting, those who visit the Flat Tops are almost always drawn to more.

Topography

Even those familiar with the landscapes of Colorado are surprised when they first visit the Flat Tops. Its terrain is as unique as it is beautiful, unlike any other Rocky Mountain experience.

As its name suggests, the huge plateaus are the dominant feature of the area. Foreboding cliffs protect the edges of the desert. Beyond the framework of these cliffs, visitors to the interior of the Flat Tops are greeted by extensive aspen and coniferous forests. The tops of the plateaus gently undulate, allowing the forests to mix with large parks and open meadows.

But among the easy terrain of the mesas, deep incisions cut through the land and drop steeply into the tumbling streams below. Hundreds of miles of trout streams attract anglers and the combination of meadows, forests and steep terrain provide a paradise for elk and mule deer hunters.

The highest reaches of flat tops are their rounded volcanic peaks and the expansive tundra that rolls beneath their feet. More than 100 lakes are scattered throughout the wilderness, many of them unnamed, giving trout anglers even more exciting opportunities.

Wildlife

The wildlife that inhabits the Flat Tops is as varied as its topography. From valley bottoms to towering peaks, hundreds of species thrive within the protected confines of nature.

One of the most numerous inhabitants of the area is the Rocky Mountain moose. The moose here in the Flat Tops are part of the largest White River herd, the largest in Colorado and later North America.

Moose can be found from open tundra to lower river bottoms, depending on the time of year and weather. Moose are primarily herbivores, which means that grass is their first choice as a food source. When grass is harder to find, they will seek out low bushes and even aspen trees.

Mule deer is another common big game species found on flattops. Deer can also range from the tree line to the bottom of rivers, but will generally migrate downhill faster than elk when the snow begins to fall. Deer are primarily foragers, meaning they prefer bushes and leaves to grass. Because of this, deer are often found in areas of low-growing oak, gooseberry, or other deciduous shrubs.

Above the tree line and up to rocky peaks, bighorn sheep can be found throughout the Flat Tops Wilderness. These majestic mammals with their heavy curling horns evade predators by relying on their eyesight in open places and their agility to escape over treacherous terrain. The bighorn sheep is the state animal of Colorado.

The most fearsome predator in the Flat Tops is the mountain lion. Although rarely seen, cougars patrol the desert in search of mule deer and other prey. It is estimated that an adult lion can kill up to one mule deer per week. However, these animals are notoriously shy around humans, and spotting one can be a lucky break.

Although they are often thought of as predators, black bears are really just opportunistic omnivores. They will eat almost anything they can find. Black bears are numerous in the Flat Tops area, but due to their tendency to be nocturnal, they are not often seen.

Small mammals that inhabit the wild include marmots and pikes, which hikers can often see on rocky slopes near the tree line. Weasels, stoats, and martens can also be found in the woods, but they are mostly nocturnal and shy around humans.

Finally, the rivers and lakes of the Flat Tops are home to several different species of fish. In particular, native Colorado cutthroat trout can be found throughout the area. These beautifully colored trout grow to healthy sizes and provide anglers with endless entertainment. Brook trout are also common in the area.

Activities

As a designated wilderness area, the Flat Tops is closed to all motorized vehicles and any form of mechanized transportation, such as mountain bikes. This leaves the entire area free to explore on foot and horseback in unrivaled solitude. It is truly a wild experience.

Hikers and backpackers have a variety of options and places to explore, with over a hundred miles of trails. However, the area is extensive and travel on foot generally limits visitors to the outer edges of the area.

One of the easiest ways to explore the interior of nature is on horseback. Nature’s best ATVs, horses, and mules can take visitors to places that are otherwise extremely difficult to reach. Horses and mules also allow visitors to take comfortable campsites into the heart of nature, where guests can fish, hunt, photograph or simply enjoy the alpine scenery without a soul around.

Fishing is a very popular activity in the area. The remote nature of the Flat Tops’ waterways and lakes means they see very little fishing pressure. The fish here do not usually see an artificial fly and are eager to attack. From small brook trout in small streams and beaver ponds, to strong cutthroat trout, there are opportunities to fit a wide range of fishing preferences.

Needless to say, the Flat Tops Wilderness is also a hunter’s paradise. Home to one of the largest herds of elk on the planet and trophy mule deer, hunters looking for a true western big game hunting experience will find exactly what they’re looking for in the Flat Tops.

Perhaps the best way to access the area for hunters is on horseback. The sheer size of this desert leaves much of the interior without pressure and here, hunters will find excellent game populations.

As a federally protected wilderness area, the Flat Tops is a gem in the heart of the Colorado Rockies. Whether you’re visiting with your camera, fishing rod, or hunting gear, there are opportunities for any type of outdoor enthusiast. The area is most easily accessed from Interstate 70 in western Colorado.

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